Hippie-Bashing in Arambol, India

April 23, 2013
Arambol

foreign-correspondent badge final On paper I should love Arambol.  I mean really love it.  There is an abundance of art and music, a multiplex of workshops in different disciplines ranging from ‘Indian Cooking’ to ‘Tantric Meditation’, a vibrant and eclectic music scene and, being a stone’s throw away from neighbouring party beach Anjuna or the uber-chilled out Querim, theoretically, there is really nothing to not like. On the contrary, there is just one problem.  The place is filled with stupid hippies.

Now before readers start clacking, “Stop being a hypocrite Little Miss Wasta, you’re hardly in a position to criticise,” allow me to demonstrate all the ways in which I am not, in any way, a tree-hugger of this ilk:

Hippie-Bashing in Arambol, India

1.  I enjoy yoga for its physical and mental health benefits and aim to practice in my own time as much as possible.

This practice is done in the privacy of my own room or practice space so that I can hopefully stave off cancer, mental illness, and physical injury from the extreme sports I frequent in my leisure time for as long as possible.

It is not done directly, and quite deliberately, in front of the mass conglomerating at the drum circle every evening (don’t worry I’m addressing that next), so as to show off my new hemp g-string and the lack of creases in my groin to an unwilling audience of families, confused Asian men, and other stupid hippies.  You know what you do, please stop.

You know what you do, please stop.

2.  Drum circles.

The pinnacle of hippie-dom.  These spots serve as the human equivalent to an African water hole, where creatures of all shapes and sizes come out of the woodwork to enjoy a nice refreshing drink–or in our case, a nice invigorating bash on the drums.

So why exactly can no one play the drums?!  I have no problem with beginners joining and learning, but if that is the case then surely it falls to the more experienced drummers to experiment with the sound and break up the seemingly endless monotone choir of out-of-time four/four drum abuse?

3.  Where are all the actual musicians?

Everywhere you look there are folk walking around with drums and guitars, yet all the venues are desperate for people to play for them. It doesn’t add up.

I know this because I went to perform at an open mic (just me and my ukulele, which isn’t even a proper instrument in my opinion–infinite joyride, yes, proper instrument, no) and I was asked by four different venues to play for them, and had two other musicians want to jam, and this was not because of my dizzying talent, I assure you.

It was simply because there were few who were willing to be genuinely creative and play something other than a wobbly version of Ben E. King’s “Stand by Me”.

4.  Where is the respect for the local people?

First I have to deal with the eyesore of trippies (trust fund hippies) that are just as, if not more, punchable than David Cameron and his band of Tory crones, clad in neon tie-dye, saluting the setting sun by fanning their arsecheeks eastwards (a move they probably call something equally intolerable like ‘Shiva’s Spirulina Solace’ ) in an apparent “trance.”

I then have to bite my tongue while they treat local people trying to make ends meet as though they were carrying the Bubonic Plague.  Having people try and sell stuff to you is how they make their money, and they have a limited time to do it in.

You are a rich, foreign, tourist.  They are the impoverished majority that exists within this developing country.

You are a rich, foreign, tourist.  They are the impoverished majority that exists within this developing country.  While the sales pitches can inevitably become tiresome from time to time, manners never cost anyone anything.  And another thing, a charity exists for stray dogs yet not for stray children–is this a world you want to be part of?!

5.  Have some respect for the environment.

I was really shocked by the state of Arambol beach.  As we would say in Britain, “It’s minging.”

Granted I am in India, a place hardly famed for its cleanliness but one would have thought that in a more upmarket state such as Goa, in an area that has a large western influence (or more to the point, sees a massive influx of supposedly eco-conscious hippies), the beach would have been in much better shape.  But no.  I was wrong.  I guess litter picking just isn’t any fun.

But no.  I was wrong.  I guess litter picking just isn’t any fun.

Incidentally, if you don’t believe me and you ever go there, try using ‘the little, shitty, river’ as a point of reference for giving directions.

I guarantee you will you find the exact one using this description alone.

6.  To all men who have grown up in Goa: stop trying to put crystals down my pants.

There were four occasions where I had to deal with what became termed the “chakra-porno-massage” by my Spanish companions.  This peculiar phenomenon appears to only occur in Goa and is so widespread that following a Skype conversation where I told one of my friends of its incidence, I was subsequently launched into a debate about porno-massage experiences with three other girls in the internet cafe who had overheard me.

So be warned, if anyone tries to ‘cleanse your aura’, ‘realign your heart or genital chakra,’ or tells you that a body massage is absolutely necessary to be able to read your palms–politely decline their kind offer and tell them that you are in fact the spawn of a dark underlord and no amount of massage is going to help.

For those currently attempting to use massage and karma to fleece women into sexual submission, just man-up and ask the girls out.

7.  Ban “Balanced View”.

I hate this organization PASSIONATELY.  In all honesty, they ruined Arambol. (My word limit will not allow me to explain why which is why you can look forward to a brand new article written in their honour very, very soon.)  Just believe me.  They are awful.

Maybe I’m being a tad cold, cruel, vicious and jaded.  It’s because I am.  I blame Balanced View.  Arambol isn’t all that bad.  The food is all first class and there is an enormously vast array of things to do, making it easy to maintain a good harmony between partying and being pro-active.

If the hippies become too much you can leave for one of the many epic beaches found in Goa, and not everyone you meet there is a soya-munching, self-righteous, new age hippie.

It’s just not the India I was expecting.  It’s not India at all in fact.

In fact, some of the best friends I made were a direct result of hippie hatred so there you go.  It’s just not the India I was expecting.  It’s not India at all in fact.  Great for meeting people, slowly integrating yourself into India, and performing (if you actually make it onstage), buying tie-dye items, and learning weird stuff.

Alternative paradise or land of BS?  I put it to you to find out yourself.

About Emily Morus-Jones

34 thoughts on “Hippie-Bashing in Arambol, India

  1. sean
    May 11, 2013
    Reply

    Oh Emily, where ever i may find her… lets have a coffee next time, should you ever come back for another try… so funny and very apt. You don’t know how amused i am… laughing! I have shared this on Arambol beach, hope that’s fine with you? This piece could be like free therapy for some… but i doubt it will be! Cheers!

  2. Emily
    April 25, 2013
    Reply

    Hmmmm…how interesting that our experiences were so dramatically different!

    I am in the process of reviewing the article I wrote about Balanced View as I may have been a tad insensitive! I personally felt like I was tricked into going as it was sold to me as something that it wasn’t and it just smacked of the kind of brainwashing you see in organisations like Scientology.

    Maybe its me, maybe I’m fucked in the head but it made me feel uncomfortable, angry, and I just felt massive pity for the speakers on stage, it was a downer. It also seemed to be aimed at middle class white people i.e; people with money which immediately sounds the alarm bells of mistrust in my mind. That said, it does seem to really help some people so perhaps I’m being too harsh, I dunno I will review what I have written and post accordingly.

    With regards to Goa, you are right, maybe having high expectations was the problem but its hard not to when the place has such a strong global reputation, and I think there will be people who will feel let down in a similar way. Saying that I suppose the thing to do would be to accept that it is what it is, it’s just not what it used to be and again, I think some people need to be made aware of it. Some of the true Goa casualties were hilarious but others made myself and other want to smack them across the face with a dead moray eel and tell them to wake the fuck up!

    Finding a crew was the only thing that made the place come alive! It’s just that it took a while and that’s because the majority of people I encountered were really unfriendly and unhelpful when I first arrived there on my own.

    I guess the lesson we learn here is that experience is subjective, (and I can be a bit of bitch from time to time!)

  3. Emily
    April 24, 2013
    Reply

    Hmmmm…interesting hypothesis. I guess the reason I returned to some of those places was partially because I like to give things a second chance or ten, it was a convenient place to find or meet people being as I didn’t have a phone, and some of the people I was with liked to hang out there despite the noise.

    I have read your article and really enjoyed it but I feel that we were at different points in our journey and in pursuit of different things. I was alone and had just arrived in India following 3 months in Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka. I think parallels can be drawn between the two places in terms of how authentic the experience was as an taster of a new culture i.e; both places are kind of a watered down version of their respective countries and are host to parties for westerners. I was aware that being on a beach with no surf was always going to be difficult but I am also a circus performer and so figured I would get involved with that side of things or yoga or something. However, having read up about Goa in Lonely planet etc I was under the impression that it would be a similar kind of “tropical bliss” that I had found in Hikkaduwa and that just wasn’t the case. The beach was brown, the water was brown, and the majority of people there were really not very friendly or just plain annoying. In fact I found my first week there (my mate that I was supposed to be meeting there was in hospital) really lonely. The only people that seemed to want to hang out were Asian men who were obsessed with trying to massage me and place crystals in areas that made me feel like I was being violated! (i.e; I did not choose to get a chakra-porno-massage, it was a simple case of my being naive but you’ll just have to believe that I’m really not that much of a space cadet so I think its important to make other female travellers aware of this). That was just not the case in Hikkaduwa, everyone was keen to welcome you! What’s more, it’s not like I didnt join in with stuff I assure you, lots of the people there are just fucking stuck up. Furthermore, there was the risk of pervy men in Hikkaduwa it was nowhere near as blatant or as sly as there. On, the whole, when Sri Lankan people try to help you they are massively more genuine than in Goa. I met so many damaged girls in Goa that had travelled there to take some time out to heal and they were harassed which is something you probably didn’t experience this because you’re a bloke. I went to Goa precisely because I thought it would be a low risk place to ease myself into Indian culture and that just was not the case.

    That said, I did eventually meet some awesome people who I love dearly and then had a lot of fun, but I was definitely ready to leave after 3 weeks. I just think that there are so many better places to go than Arambol. I regret that I did not have more time to explore other places in Goa that I had heard about such as Palolem, but I was on my way to the Kumbh Mela and from there headed up north which is why I think perhaps we are different in what we were looking for in our time spent in India.

    I agree that you are free to do whatever you want, and I did try a number of things, its just that I seemed to have the most fun whenever I was out of Arambol, or just chilling with the friends I made in my guesthouse, and you can also apply that rule to anywhere in India or Asia for that matter. That’s what being on holiday or travelling is!

    Perhaps it is wrong to compare Hikkaduwa and Arambol but being that they were two consecutive destinations on my trip it just couldn’t be helped. Even if you ignore my experience in Hikkaduwa, I still think that Arambol was by far my least favorite place in India and I’m willing to bet money that you could have a better time on some of the beaches in Kerala or South Goa.

    I was led to believe that Arambol represented a chilled out paradise beach where you can go and make friends, learn new stuff, and listen to some new and exciting music. Whist that is true to an extent (which I did mention in the article) it was also hectic, dirty, and I felt like people were constantly trying to sell stuff to me, rip me off, judge me, or molest me, and you’re just going to have to trust that I’m really not a princess when it comes to stuff like that!

    Whilst there was some good music there I still don’t see what all the fuss is about. Trance isn’t really my bag but there was a crew from Bristol who put on some good nights at CocoLoco, and a guy from Berlin that did some impressive stuff, and some of the more traditional Indian musicians at Magic Park etc were pretty sweet but it was not the mindblowing music town I had come to expect.

    How did you find your experience of “Balanced View”? Personally it left me wanting to burn the place down and it seemed to me to be statement to what North Goa has become nowadays – I commercial entity aimed fleecing vulnerable or stupid westerners out of as much cash as possible. Although, to be fair, I’m glad I went because of the awesome people I eventually met and it just meant that my trip in India has got better and better ever since.

    • Kenny
      April 24, 2013

      When i came to Goa i had been in north India, visiting some big cities. To me, Goa was the place where it was finally hot enough, beaches, good coffee, and the locals DIDNT try to rip me off 🙂

      I suppose its a matter of comparison, which is really hard in India, and especially Goa. Its not really India, its just its own, thing….

      I’ve seen enough of Indian guys making western girl uncomfortable, cant imagine how it feels, but i get the point.

      I had no expectations when i went to Goa, no lonely planet, hardly any reviews from other people. From that basis, i made loads of friends, went to way more parties then id ever thought, hang out in all kinds of guitar/drumcircles and had great food. Perhaps in your case expectations was the reason you where put off? And also not getting the crew needed to enjoy the time maybe 🙂

      Balanced view was to me a very solid message, a very simple way of saying what everyone else is creating religions about. “RELAX”. It inspired me to hear that. It inspired me to listen at people actually TALKING about their issues openly. It inspired me to realize we all carry the same shit, and it inspired me to talk about it myself. Balanced view creates a foundation for a huge amount of people around the world, to rest upon, get support from, and support others. Personally, i have not seen one bad thing come out of that center, and i have not seen any other organisation do it better than they do 🙂

      Having said that im not a very active part of the community, i go to open meetings every now and then, i enjoy it, and help them out from time to time, but my focus is somewhere else 🙂

  4. Kenny
    April 23, 2013
    Reply

    What a fantastic review, it cracked me up, your angle on spending time in Goa is interesting. I agree on most of what you write, but i find it strange that you choose to spend time in all those places of Goa that obviously gets you annoyed. The drum circle is awesome if you like amateur drumming, if you dont, go somewhere else! I rarely go to the drum circles, because its not my vibe, i dont go to chakra-porno-massage, because its not my vibe. I felt that the parties wasnt good enough, so i gathered my friends and we made our own epic party. Its very simple, in Goa theres space for everyone to create and do their own thing, that means, Tantric-healer-crystal-mind-charlie is going to have his show on the beach, but you know what, you dont have to attend…you can play your ukelele somewhere (which sounds great). I know theres ALOT of great musicians in goa, and Arambol. They have probably choosen to move away from just those areas you choose to spend time in 🙂

    Id say in Arambol you are “pretty much” free to do whatever you want. Wherever you end up, is YOUR choice, because around the corner is something completely different, no excuses! Choose your spot, and enjoy it, or dislike it, both are great.

    Thanks for this text anyhow heres mine from last year:
    http://lightlymovingandslightlygrooving.wordpress.com/2012/04/06/go-goa-full-power-shanti/

  5. Trey
    April 23, 2013
    Reply

    Love it Emily!!! Spot on!! You are hilarious and what a what a well-written article!! It’s got rhythm for sure!
    Sincerely, the Indian embassy in Nepal! (you goof!)

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